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Saturday, 24 January 2009

Wine travels in Italian, French and Spanish




Well, I've had the most interesting wine month in January and I thought I'd take you along with me through some of the wines of the "old world" this month.
I was on business in Switzerland so left Italy via the Gottardo and travelled to Luzern where I drank some very good Italian wines (yes I know the Swiss produce wine, that's coming later), from very far south, Sicily to be precise, at a great restaurant called the Rebstock. A four hundred year old, timbered building in the old part of the beautiful city of Luzern.
The evening went like this:
Arrived, lovely chatty ambiance.
Checked out the wine list, saw Sicilia-Tasca d' Almerita-Regaleali wines on the small wine list.
Ordered the food I saw arriving at someone elses table. (I do this often; choose my meal by the aromas coming from someone's arriving food).
The food: A delicious Pie with wild mushrooms, light mousse dumplings and veal cooked in Barolo, and surrounded by steamed assortment of crisp vegetables. The smell was divine.
The first wine: Regaleali Bianco 2005
This wine went so well with the creamy, meaty flavours of the meat pie and vegetables.
It's buttery but slightly acidic with gooseberry flavors and I loved it. So I thought I'd have the fabled Regaleali Nero d'avola to follow, which I finished off with dessert of the richest, fattest piece of homemade chocolate cake I've seen so far.
Visit the estate that re-defined Sicilian wines, innovative, brilliant. (disclaimer: visiting this site may bring on a strong desire to escape to that sun-drenched island with azure seas).
Both these wines are produced on sun-drenched estates in the province of Palermo Sicily, with perfect cooling sea breeze conditions for excellent Sauvignon blanc, Chardonnay, Malvasia and tanin-rich Cabernet Sauvignon, and they never disappoint. "The golden wine of volcanoes, and its flavour lingers on your tongue till evening" Guy de Maupassant .... just like the really fine Chardonnay/Grillo blend they produce further south in Sicily, great for lunch on a Sunday with roast chicken. I drank a glass of this with a friend in Lugano before departing on my trip.


The next day I had to rise early and get a train to French speaking Geneva, where two wine fanatics/experts Wink and Brett, had invited me for lunch. Since they both live in France and use Geneva airport as their local hub to London, we found that to be the best meeting-point.
They led me through the airport to a new restaurant tucked away upstairs. The elegant Altitude restaurant was an apt setting to meet, as the wine list and menu where both extensive and Elegantly French and the setting refined.
I put myself in the hands of area expertise, as Wink of Winetravelguides.com ordered a white wine beloved by her family, that I would never have stumbled across in ten life-times, Aigle les Murailles appellation d'origine controlle grand vin.
The courses that came to our table while we talked wine, were wonderfully presented and this clean, fresh wine, from which I got notes of asparagus and grass, complimented the food beautifully.
The wine label with a green newt on it, was charming and my hosts kindly had it removed to take away with me.
My choice: First, ravioli stuffed with wild mushrooms in a delicious light truffle froth which simply melted in the mouth.

Followed by lamb cutlets cooked to pink perfection as all French chefs insist is must be, with a little side dish of light-as-air mashed potatoes.
The finale was a fresh mango and passion fruit creation that was simply superb.

Both on a schedule, them to fly and me to ride, I travelled back to Zurich by train though the scenic route along the lake via Lausanne and then on to Bern, first class. Gazing out of the window in first-class silence, I was enjoying the lake area, for it's pretty sunny stone-terraced vineyards tumbling down to what the Swiss call a See.


The finale to the trip was in a little wine bar in Lugano back in the Italian speaking part of Switzerland where in summer we rent a lakehouse near to the border with Como our home.
A friend took me to a Spanish wine bar in Lugano for an after-work drink. The tiny winebar seating twelve at a squeeze, sells and serves only Spanish wines.
The charming proprieter choose two reds for me on the encouragement of my friend.

The first: Piedra Lazar Tempranillo from Ribera Del Duero, light and smooth and pleasant with the small tapas fish dishes served to us.
The second: higher in alcohol, complex and full of tannins Finca los Nevados Tempranillo/ Petit Verdot - la Mancha.
Both served with tapas of chick pea, fish and bread.
A fitting end to a weekend steeped in local culture, food and wine in the multi-lingual Europe in which I live.
Please leave any comments of appreciation or questions about the wines below.

3 comments:

  1. lovely to read about where you've been and what you've enjoyed eating and drinking - especially Altitude in Geneva!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Quite a weekend and appreciate you finding room at Altitude to meet us - and the restaurant was special, I agree. The Aigle Les Murailles was a Chasselas from the steep vineyards at the end of Lac Léman or Lake Geneva in the canton of Vaud.
    Hope to meet up with you again one day, perhaps at that great-sounding Spanish wine bar in Lugano - only in Switzerland can you have a Spanish wine bar in the Italian speaking part of a country with four official languages (German, French, Italian and Romansch).

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thanks for the visit Wink and Brett and for introducing me to a different side of Geneva, last time was at the expat expo in summer where I tasted Swiss wines and British cheese in Switzerland!

    ReplyDelete

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Don't forget to click on the photos (which are all mine and copyrighted) to go to the different wine estates to find wines you want to purchase or add to your collection. You can take a virtual tour to California, Australia, Chile, South Africa New Zealand and Italy.
click on the country links too. while clicking on the red winelist image will take you to my blog on Italy, enjoy!

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Red wine pill on the way-->LONDON, England (Reuters) -- Italian scientists are working on a pill that replicates all the health benefits of drinking a glass of red wine.

Do you know your vintages? The good and bad years when buying.

Here on Wine world we take the mystery out of ordering a wine. What vintage to buy and which wine goes best with what. You can order wines right here on the site from the vineyards or suppliers by clicking on the picture links.

Italy vintages
1996 Vintage
This was a good year for wine producers across most of Italy, especially from Tuscany and Piedmonte which experienced good conditions for maturation. Piemonte enjoyed a late hot summer so look out for the 1996 vintage in Piemonte.
1997 Vintage
A fabulous vintage, especially for Tuscan wines and those from Piedmonte. For Tuscany this was once in fifty year vintage. So a Chianti Classico 1997 is worth what you will pay for it. Everywhere else was, ok and 1997 was still a good vintage.
1998 Vintage
A very good year for Piemonte, so choose Barolo, or Barbera from the Piedmont, these are fabulous now and will only improve in the cellar. In 1998 Some Tuscan producers were ok others not so, and avoid the Southern regions of Campagnia and Basilicata on the heel.
1999 Vintage
A mixed year in Italy, with rain for much of the country, resulting in average wines. But, as is often the case, ok wines from Piedmont. The two exceptions were Tuscany and Campania on the southwest coast which had a good growing season leading to excellent vintages.
2000 Vintage
2000
was the year of Barolo, if you can find one, snap it up. - The season was much too hot for much of Italy including Chianti, but the more-northern Piemonte was alright. The wines produced across Piemonte are exceptional, and will lay down well.
2001 Vintage
a successful vintage for Italy's wine makers on the whole, with the best wines coming from Camania & Basilicata . Many Tuscan wines were affected though because of irregular weather conditions. Amarone & the Veneto region experienced dry weather and wines from 2001 are good to excellent.
2002 Vintage
2002
could go down as the 'worst in 50 years'. Italy had heavy rains and Piedmont had hailstorms which wrecked most Barolo vineyards. Rains in Tuscany in September and October which affected the vintage so overall try to avoid this vintage,and if you see it offered cheap you know why.
2003 Vintage
Summer In Europe in 2003 was one of the hottest on record and this caused problems for growers in Tuscany and Piedmont. To be safe try and avoid this vintage in general, however the wines from Montepulciano are worth getting, and Amarone wines are drinking well now, but will get better with a few more years in the cellar.
2004 Vintage
Wines from 2004 from Tuscany and Piedmont and the Veneto should definately be on your list. With good growing conditions throughout. Sun-filled days, followed by cooler nights and a late harvest. Avoid Campania & Basilicata however, which had bad weather in September and October. 2005 Vintage
Europe's wine producers called 2005 one of the best years in recent times. Italy was the exception though - with heavy rains. Tuscany and Piedmont and the deep South were alright, and you can still find good wines in this vintage from the top vineyards.

Upcoming wine events to attend in Tuscany - suggest a wine for next review under comments.

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